In my book, sand between my toes, sunshine on my face and saltwater is more or less all that it takes to make me happy. A Saturday at the beach is a Saturday wonderfully spent, and what could possibly make it a more perfect weekend than to enjoy not just one, but several of Sydney’s gorgeous coastal beaches. Albeit coming from a tourist’s fresh perspective on the city, the coastal walk from Bondi Beach to Coogee Beach is a total must-do, and something that may just bring you back time and again (I’ve already been twice for a relatively short time in Oz!)
You can of course start the walk from either end, or anywhere along the way.. I chose to start from Bondi Beach, at the quintessentially fabulous Bondi Icebergs club. If you are coming from Sydney CBD, a quick metro ride to Bondi Junction Station and a short bus from there to the beachfront lets you soak in some of Bondi’s beauty (and heat!) before heading off. I always love visiting the graffiti wall (always new and amazing art up), watching slack-jawed as 6 year olds tear up the skate park and inevitably lead me to question how I ever thought I had a shred of athletic talent, and then maybe even catch some rays or wave jump at the beach before heading on up to icebergs.
Once you’re at icebergs, whether or not you hang for a while (only $5 AUD) for full day access to pools and facilities, head along to the back on the middle level (where you see all the selfies taking place along the handrail overlooking the ocean pools) and your coastal beach walk path begins right there! Now you’re off for a gorgeous trip- as an insufferable tourist and photography addict, I do the beach walk at least equipped with iPhone and GoPro – I haven’t yet lugged my bigger camera around, mostly because I’m just there for the experience. Also, it’s likely (and I highly recommend it) that you’ll stop off at each beach, bay, or lookout to enjoy the views, take a dip, sunbathe… or who knows, catch a stray game of beach cricket or volleyball! In this case, especially if doing the walk alone, you may not want to be bogged down with extra (and valuable) baggage.
Should I run a marathon to prepare?
I mean, sure, go for it – probably not needed. I would place the beach walk firmly in the scenic category, not even really lapsing into challenging and certainly not dangerous, though I definitely think that you are secretly getting some great exercise regardless! While the entire walk is conveniently paved, there are lookouts, rock pools and other fun scenic spots that require a little scrambling, and the walk involves inclines and a good amount of stairs near Gordon Bay… I’ve seen ALL sorts of people, with all sorts of companions (animals, children, baby strollers, etc.) do this walk, but definitely would be a good idea to wear comfy walking gear/shoes. I’ve done the walk twice in bikini and flip flops, but I’m also a beach bum… your call.
What to Bring: The Essentials:
Well, back to my photography/beach bum spiel- this is really a personal choice, but remember you’re not hiking Mt. Everest, and not hiking at all, for that matter. Bikini and flippy floppies? FINE. Cutest of cute sundress, sunnies, heels (ehhhh?-seen it done, but not sure where they were going with that) and a derby-ready hat? SURE- you do you, just please if there’s one thing you take away from this, remember the damn sunscreen. I could devote an entire post just to the SUN here in OZ (which I may just do, btw), but it’s really. Not. Fooling. Around. Those people who “don’t need sunscreen” because they “never burn” or when they “just go on a walk…” NOPE. Please wear it, stay safe kids. And who wants to be a lobster smothered in aloe unable to shower for 2 days anyway.
My bringalong list: iPhone (battery pack optional), GoPro, sunscreen, sarong/coverup, flipflops/runners, toggles(aussie for bikini/swimsuit ;), sunglasses and/or hat. Beyond this, go crazy, bring a great book and find a nice nook in the cliff pools overlooking an insanely gorgeous view! Bring your inflatable flamingo or unicorn!! (but just… don’t).
What to DO along the way:
Depending on how much of your day you want to dedicate to the walk, there are endless options awaiting you. For me, the scenery, sunshine, slight exercise and a dip every now and then at a different beach is the perfect formula, but for the extra-actives, why not start with a surf and skateboard, do some swimming along the way, and end with stand-up-paddle boarding at Gordon’s Bay or Coogee Beach! The walk essentially consists of six “sections”:
Bondi to Tamarama: Scenic views
Tamarama to Bronte: watch the surfers, more scenic views. There are picnic areas and parks along both of these, as well as training parks for the runners/fitness lovers! While Tamarama is quite small, Bronte is larger and quite popular among families. The Bronte pools offer another ocean pool experience with a small jumping rock, which, even though most frequented by ten year olds, is still tempting to all of us.
Bronte to Clovelly: You’ll hit some uphills here, and most noticeably walk right smack through the famous Waverly Cemetery. I make sure to hit this part of the walk well before sunset… perhaps you will share my sentiment once you see this bit of the walk for yourself. Once you get into Clovelly, you’ll start seeing the Clovelly beach clubs etc. and a lawn bowling court which was home to the first-ever game of lawn bowling that I’ve ever witnessed played by people under the age of 70- go team.
Clovelly to Coogee: Stairs and hills are involved, and the view will be amazing from atop Gordon’s Bay, also popular amongst divers and paddle boarders. You will notice a small sign before going up a long flight of stairs to continue your walk for the “Underwater Nature Trail,” essentially a trail marked by cement and chain that can be completed in around 30 min underwater. This is definitely on my list as soon as I break into the diving game! As you arrive to Coogee, you will see “Ocean Baths”- I wasn’t positive what these were at first, but they are actually fantastic natural pools formed by some rock outcroppings and ocean, creating a lovely bathing area! Family and adventure-junkie friendly, this place is a gem.
Coogee Beach: As you near Coogee (the end of your journey, unless you plan to continue your beach walk on to Maroubra), you will be able to hear it from the insane level of noise emitting from Coogee Pav; the pav is a bit of a hybrid between private beach club and South Beach bar, featuring the widest possible range of patrons, from just-off-the-beach bikini clad hooligans to bejeweled and grey haired couples. Regardless of the style, one thing is certain: the sangria is flowing, merry is being made, and you will sure as hell hear it.
If the idea of trying to blend in at the Pav seems somewhat overwhelming to you at the moment, head on down along the beach until you come to some stairs-directly across the street from these are several restaurants, starting with Little Jack Horner, a pick of mine. This street has a pretty solid range of choices, from trendy seafood dishes to Thai and Brazilian BBQ to the “Brookie”- a brownie-cookie filled with intense gelato… obviously a must. My move after the walk is usually to find my way to some food, grab dinner and as the sun is setting, take my Brookie, ice cream or dessert of choice to the beachfront and watch the waves roll in as the sunset turns the sky to cotton candy.
If you are heading back to Sydney from Coogee, it’s just another relatively easy bus to Bondi Junction Station and train back into town. By this time, nobody cares how many clothes you (aren’t) wearing, how crispy your legs are or how much sand you track in behind you, so you shouldn’t either. Just soak in the happiness from a lovely day of those gorgeous views, amazing beaches and good, good vibes.